Introduction 6
Tools 10
Your sewing machine 14
Sewing know-how 18
Fabrics 24
Sewing language 32
GETTING STARTED
Sizing 40
Pattern cutting 48
Adjusting your blocks 52
Making your sample 60
Altering your sample 74
MAKING YOUR DRESS YOUR OWN
Adapting the pattern 92
Necklines 92
Sleeves 104
Skirts 122
Drafting a collar 136
Drafting pockets 139
Finishing your dress 142
Constructing your
garment 142
Zip closures 146
Separates 154
Tops 154
Skirts: adding a waistband or facing 156
Taking it further 159
Index 160
Helen Rhiannon is an award-winning designer specializing in bespoke wedding dresses. Helen was fortunate to grow up by the picturesque coastline of Gower in Swansea, Wales, where she still lives. She creates beautiful, timeless, handmade gowns from her studio.
Helen has gained a solid reputation for her superlative dressmaking skills which has led her to share her knowledge and passion through teaching. Helen set up the ‘All Sewn Up Wales’ sewing workshops in 2010, designed to help people learn and develop new skills, whilst meeting like-minded creative people. Her expert tuition has attracted students from around the world and she regularly makes guest appearances on national television.
For more information on Helen’s work, visit www.allsewnupwales.co.uk where you can also find an extensive online sewing shop, a wide range of tutorials and Helen’s YouTube channel.
Fashion designer Rhiannon (Sew Perfect Pets) serves up a solid
introduction to sewing dresses. 'Must-have' tools include a sewing
machine, pattern paper, and hand-sewing needles for attaching
buttons. When selecting fabrics, Rhiannon recommends cotton for its
affordability, crepe for its softness, and polyester satin for
mimicking the sheen of silk on a budget. The author walks through
how to make a sleeveless dress from the full-sized pattern sheets
included with the book, offering extensive instruction on
customizing the design with a curved or boatneck neckline, flared
or butterfly sleeves, a fitted or gathered skirt, a collar, or
pockets. Inclusivity is emphasized throughout; pattern sheet sets
are provided in 19 different sizes she has devised and Rhiannon
offers tips on adjusting a dress bodice for wheelchair users (the
front should be shortened and the back lengthened 'for a more
comfortable fit'). The thorough advice sometimes borders on the
obvious ('Close your eyes and put your hands on your waist and this
is usually the right spot,' she writes on determining where to take
one’s waist measurement), but the prose is encouraging ('We need to
accept what we are born with... this is what makes us unique'), and
the numerous ways to mix and match design components allow for
ample customization. This primer gets the job done.
*Publishers Weekly*
Helen’s method goes back to basics and the book introduces what
sewing tools you will find useful, a short introduction to the
sewing machine and some simple sewing techniques to get you started
if you are a beginner. She also explains about different fabric
types you might choose for a particular garment and provides
translation for the sometimes confusing terminology used in sewing!
The book offers a very comprehensive introductory section and will
provide a useful reminder for all levels of sewist. The key to this
book lies in discarding conventional high street sizing and taking
measurements of YOUR body. Helen explains how to take comprehensive
measurements of your own figure and some extra useful measurements
too, with a handy chart you can copy and use. I love that Helen has
included measurements of real women so you can see her method in
action. Read the full review here.
*www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk*
This book is a little different in its approach to teaching you how
to sew! For example, Helen explains how to measure yourself but she
has used ‘real people’ to show sizing in practice and how to choose
a size when you don’t fall between the pattern’s sizing. There’s
also an in-depth section of adapting patterns (after all no pattern
will fit you perfectly without!). Each garment detail like sleeves,
pockets, necklines etc. is covered individually making it a good
book to dip in and out of. The flow of this book makes perfect
sense and is in an order that makes it easy to follow. It’s a great
book to sit by your sewing machine when you need to re-affirm a
technique too!
*The Pattern Pages, Issue 33*
Create beautiful, customized dresses for every shape and size. Mix
and match skirts, sleeves and necklines for over 80 stylish
variations. Choose the exact size that fits and flatters you from a
bespoke sizing chart that takes into account differences in body
size across bust, waist and hips.
*Machine Knitting Monthly, September 2023*
In this comprehensive, informative book, Helen explains how to
create beautiful, customised dresses for every shape and size.
Choose the exact size that fits and flatters you from a bespoke
sizing chart that takes into
account differences in body size across bust, waist and hips. Trace
off your pattern pieces, then create a sample (toile) in calico
which you can then adapt to create the dress of your dreams, in
your own choice of fabulous fabric. There are four style options
each for sleeves and necklines, including a flared sleeve, a capped
sleeve, a sweetheart neckline or a boatneck; and five skirt
options, including a fitted pencil-style skirt, a zhuzhy circle
skirt, and an A-line, with or without pleats. You can also choose
to add a sweet, classic Peter Pan collar, or inseam pockets, to
your garment. Alternatively, you can even create a skirt as a
separate garment, simply by adding a waistband or facing.
*Craft Focus, August/September 2023*
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