Introduction
Ancient Information Highways
La Strada del Vino
La Strada della Cucina
Roman Roads
Via Appia—Lazio
Via Salaria—Le Marche
Via Flaminia—Umbria
Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia
Giulia
Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige
Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and
Lombardia
Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle
d’Aosta
Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana
Resources
Kitchen Road Map: Fundamental
Techniques
Basic Recipes, and Ingredients
Acknowledgments
Index
Recipes
Via Appia—Lazio
Spiced Ricotta Fritters with Smoked Maple Syrup
Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy
Mayonnaise
Crispy Pig Ears with Pickled Green Tomatoes, Jalapeño, and
Radish
Spring Vegetable Vignarola Salad
Bucatini with Nettles, Pancetta, and Black Pepper
Whole Wheat Fettuccine with Funghi Trifolati and Spring
Garlic
Braised Oxtail in Cabbage Leaves with Cranberry
Beans
Goat Cheese and Ricotta Crespelle with Orange-Caramel
Sauce
Spring Lamb
Lamb Ragù with Semolina Gnocchi and Pecorino Pepato
Lamb Belly
Lamb Loin and Rack with Gaeta Olive Sauce
Leg of Lamb Wrapped in Lamb Mousse and Swiss Chard
Steamed Artichokes
Pickled Swiss Chard Stems
Via Salaria—Le Marche
Fluke Crudo, Sausage-Stuffed Olives, and Citrus
Fried Surf Clams with Agrodolce and Onion, Fennel, and Cherry
Pepper Salad
Baked Anchovies
Passatelli en Brodo
Lasagna Vincisgrassi
Rabbit a la Villa Bucci
Dried Fruit and Nut Biscotti with Sweet Wine
Granita
Via Flaminia—Umbria
Smoked Trout with Warm Potato Salad and Horseradish
Gelatina
Chopped Chicken Livers with Wine Gelatina, Carrot Marmellata, and
Grilled Bread
Fava Bean Agnolotti with Mashed Black Truffle
Tagliatelle d’Oro with Chicken Livers, Mushrooms, and Black
Truffle
Linguine al Cocoa with Venison Ragù
Farro-Stuffed Quail with Chestnuts, Persimmons, and Dandelion
Greens
Pistachio Torta with Meyer Lemon Curd, Pistachio Crema, and Brown
Butter
Suckling Pig
Crocchette with Pickled Green Rhubarb and Apricots
Legs and Belly with Thyme, Lemon, and Fennel Pollen
Chops with Prosciutto Sauce
Blécs with Suckling Pig Ragù and Rapini
Pickled Rhubarb and Dried Apricots
Prosciutto Sauce
Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina
Sardines in Saor with Peperonata Jam
Asparagus with Lardo-Wrapped Rye Dumplings, Goat Cheese, and
Sprouting Greens
Squid Ink Linguine with Braised Squid, Sea Urchin, Broccoli Crema,
and Pan Grattato
Farro Pasta with Speck, Green Onions, and Poppy
Seeds
Duck Ravioli with Sour Cherries and Candied Pecans
Chocolate Torta with Vanilla Mascarpone
Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige
Chilled Asparagus Soup with Meyer Lemon Yogurt and Fish
Roe
Mustard Spaetzle with Chanterelle Mushrooms and
Stridoli
Rye Gnocchi with Savoy Cabbage, Potatoes, and Crispy
Speck
Mushroom Risotto
Beer-Braised Pork Cheeks with Escarole
Venison Loin with Parsnips and Huckleberry
Vinaigrette
Ricotta Bavarese with Verjus-Poached Rhubarb, Orange Confitura, and
Powdered Olive Oil
Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia
Fritto Misto
Chestnut-Filled Pasta with Broccoli di Cicco, Guanciale, and
Burnt-Orange Sauce
Squash Cappellacci with Medjool Dates, Rosemary Brown Butter, and
Saba
Ricotta and Quail Egg Ravioli with Wild Greens and
Fontina
Veal and Mortadella Tortellini en Consommé
Bolognese with Egg Noodles
Erbazzone Torta with Braised Greens, Prosciutto Cotto, and
Eggs
Pork Milanese, Pickled Cabbage Salad, Anchovy, and Lemon Brown
Butter
Buckwheat Polenta Taragna, Rabbit Stufato, Cherry Tomato, and
Mimolette
Fried Quince Pies with Truffle Honey and Aged
Balsamic
Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta
Egg “in the Hole” with Mushrooms and Miner’s
Lettuce
Bone Marrow Sformato with Stuffed Baby Artichokes
Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle
Fonduta
Risotto with Crayfish and Sweetbreads
Savoy Cabbage with Mushrooms, Lardo, and Crispy
Prosciutto
Chestnut-Stuffed Veal Breast with Orzotto
Baked Polenta with Beef Cheek Ragù, Eggs, and
Fontina
Barolo Beef with Carrots and New Potatoes
Chocolate Soufflés with Milk Chocolate Gelato
Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana
Baked Ricotta with Cherry Tomatoes, Saba, and Pignoli
Granola
Scallop Crudo with Sunchokes, Hibiscus Agrodolce, Almonds, and
Cherries
Albacore Tuna Confitura with Panzanella Salad and
Anchovies
Beet and Ricotta Pansotti with Walnuts and Ricotta
Salata
Tomato-Braised Abalone with Farinata
Smoked Linguine with Clams, Cherry Tomatoes, and Basil
Pesto
Ramp Spaghetti with Crab and Sea Urchin Butter
Saffron Trofie with Veal Ragù
Passion Fruit Panna Cotta with Coconut Spuma
SHELLY LINDGREN is the wine director and co-owner of both A16 and
SPQR. She has received a James Beard nomination for wine service
and was named Best New Sommelier by Wine&Spirits.
SPQR's executive chef MATTHEW ACCARRINO is the recipient of Star
Chefs' San Francisco 2010 Rising Star Award.
KATE LEAHY is a freelance writer and the co-author of A16 Food +
Wine.
“Shelly Lindgren and Matthew Accarrino have composed a book filled
with their inspirations based on Italian regional cuisine and
wines. It gives us a powerful insight into what makes SPQR one of
San Francisco’s favorite restaurants. It makes me wish I lived
close by.”
—Thomas Keller, The French Laundry
“Shelley Lindgren has done it again. First, there was her
restaurant A16 and a stunning cookbook emerged from that
still-marvelous restaurant. Then came SPQR. With the remarkable
talent of chef Matthew Accarrino, it has become one of San
Francisco’s
finest restaurants, bar none. If you haven’t yet heard of SPQR and
Matthew Accarrino, trust me, you soon will. This book shows
why.”
—Matt Kramer, author and Wine Spectator columnist
“Matthew brings a sense of elegance and refinement to Italian
cooking that seems at once natural and yet revelatory. There is a
humanistic element to the cooking at SPQR that in concert with
Shelley’s wine service, creates a memorable and warm experience. I
always look forward to returning.”
—Christopher Kostow, chef, The Restaurant at Meadowood
“I am a staunch traditionalist when it comes to Italian cuisine,
yet I love Matthew Accarrino’s modern Italian cooking at
SPQR. His food is Italian in spirit but cooked in the region
(paese) of California, using local ingredients, contemporary
techniques, and infusing the food with soul and sophistication.
Shelley Lindgren is my go-to goddess for Italian wine. A charming
and delightful educator, she has extensive knowledge of Italian
wine making and wine makers. But even more important, she seeks out
little known wines from small regional producers. I learn and taste
something new with every visit to SPQR.”
—Joyce Goldstein, chef, author, and culinary consultant
“With well-thought-out recipes and little known wine pairings,
discover a perfect
balance of contemporary flavor and technique with a soulfulness
that is respectful of tradition. Through Matthew’s passion and
experience, SPQR will challenge you to become a better cook!”
—Rick Moonen, executive chef and owner of rm Seafood
Praise for A16: Food + Wine:
“This is a cook’s cookbook; it deserves a quiet season filled with
long chilly nights, the ideal time to enjoy its gutsy dishes.”
—Gourmet
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