Chapter headings. Series preface. Preface and acknowledgements. Principal symbols. List of tables. Introduction. Some basic concepts and definitions. Measurement: omnidirectional. Directional measurement (in situ sensors). Analysis and interpretation: omnidirectional. Estimating extreme wave height. Analysis and interpretation: directional data. Remote sensing of waves. Waves in finite depth. Wave generation by wind, and wave forecasting. Nonlinear effects. Errors and uncertainties. Appendix 1 The computation of wave spectra. Appendix 2 The spectrum of the product of two random variables and that of the square of one random variable. Appendix 3 Cross-power Spectra. Appendix 4 Digital integration and filtering. Appendix 5 Some useful statistical formulae. Appendix 6 Fitting regression lines to wave data. Appendix 7 Initial analysis and on-line recording of wave data: practical recommendations. References. Subject index.
Douglas Faulkner, University of Glasgow "My judgement is that this book is the most satisfying one available on the subject and is the best value for money of its competitors...Very strongly recommended" JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL INST. OF NAVAL ARCHITECTS