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I think it's one of the great sports stories of all time.' Kelly Slater

About the Author

Tim Baker is a freelance writer based in Currumbin, Queensland, Australia. He is a former editor of Tracks and Surfing Life magazines, and co-author of "Bustin' Down The Door," the biography of surfing champion Wayne "Rabbit" Bartholomew (Harper Collins, 1996, now in its sixth print run). He has also edited and contributed to an anthology of Australian surf writing, "Waves - Great Stories From The Surf," (Harper Collins, 2005). His latest book, "High Surf," profiles the world's most inspiring surfers (Harper Collins, 2007). His work has appeared in Rolling Stone, GQ, Inside Sport, the Sydney Morning Herald, the Australian Financial Review, the Bulletin magazine, The Australian Way, Playboy, as well as surfing magazines around the world. He has received the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame Media Award and been shortlisted for the CUB Australian Sports Writing Awards.


If you love the underdog, surfing and happy endings, then Occy satisfies on all counts. Co-author Tim Baker takes you on the rollercoaster journey of Occy's life from a cheeky surfing prodigy at 16, ranked number three in the world at 17, to winner of the prestigious Pipeline Masters at 19. But by 22, the powerful goofyfooter's talent for radical surfing was overwhelmed by a spiralling drug addiction, manic mood swings and career burnout that saw him quit. However, he eventually overcame depression and fitness issues to re-qualify in 1996 and by 1997 was runner-up to the seemingly invincible Kelly Slater. Finally, in 1999, aged 33, he won the coveted world title. Baker is a respected surf writer whose background includes editing Tracks and Surfing Life and co-writing the excellent biography of Wayne 'Rabbit' Bartholomew, the former larrikin surf champion, now head of the Association of Surfing Professionals. Baker's done a good, workman-like job with Occy, he pulls no punches, allows his subject to speak his mind and has produced an interesting insight to a much- loved surfing personality. Occy is an accessible read, includes some excellent photographs and will find its strongest audience with youngish males who live, breathe and eat surfing. (See interview, page 44.) Alison Aprhys is a freelance surf journalist and photographer

By going down so hard, by fully falling apart, he was able to give himself longevity. It's like the Buddhist teachings about birth and death--something has to die for new birth to happen, and that happens inside us too. Occy was the ultimate example of that. --Tom Carroll
Occy was always a missile going hyperspeed, about to blow up at any moment--it's true of so many highly intelligent or gifted people . . . All of his passion was put into his surfing. --Kelly Slater, eight-time surfing world champion

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