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Table of contents: Preface 3 The levadas 5 Acknowledgements; Recommended reading 7 A country code for walkers and motorists 8 Getting about 9 Plan of Funchal city centre with city exits and bus departure points 10-11 Picnicking 12 Picnic suggestions 12 Touring 17 Car tour 1 MADEIRA NORTH AND SOUTH 18 Car tour 2 EASTERN MADEIRA'S GENTLE CHARMS 21 Car tour 3 THE CORRAL AND THE CAPE 24 Car tour 4 MOUNTAINS AND MORE MOUNTAINS! 26 Car tour 5 PORTO MONIZ AND THE PAUL DA SERRA 30 Car tour 6 THE SUNNY SOUTHWEST COAST 33 Walking 35 Guides, waymarking, maps 35 Where to stay 36 Weather 37 What to take 38 Nuisances 38 Portuguese for walkers 39 Organisation of the walks 40 Appetizer: from Santa to Porto Moniz 41 FUNCHAL AND THE SOUTHEAST Walk 1 The Socorridos Valley 42 Walk 2 From the Poco da Neve to Barreira 45 Walk 3 From the Eira do Serrado to Curral 47 Walk 4 Boca da Corrida * Pico Grande * Encumeada 49 Walk 5 Fontes * Achada da Pinta * Trompica * Fontes 51 Walk 6 Levada do Norte: from Estreito de Camara de Lobos to Barreiras 54 Walk 7 Levada dos Tornos: from Romeiros to the Sitio das Quatro Estradas 59 Walk 8 Camacha * Levada do Canico * Assomada 67 Walk 9 Santo da Serra * Levada Nova * Sitio das Quatro Estradas 68 Walk 10 Levada da Serra: from Choupana to Portela 70 Walk 11 Levada do Canical: from Marocos to the Canical tunnel 72 Walk 12 Pico do Facho - Canical circuit 74 Walk 13 Ponta de Sao Lourenco 76 THE NORTHEAST AND THE GREAT PEAKS Walk 14 North coast path: Canical tunnel * Boca do Risco * Porto da Cruz 79 Walk 15 From Portela to Porto da Cruz 83 Walk 16 Cruz * Levada do Castelejo * Cruz 84 Walk 17 Penha de Aguia 85 Walk 18 Santana * Sao Jorge * Vigia 87 Walk 19 Pico do Arieiro * Pico Ruivo * Achada do Teixeira 89 Walk 20 Achada do Teixeira * Pico Ruivo * Torrinhas * Encumeada 92 Walk 21 Pico das Pedras * Cova da Roda * Cruzinhas 95 Walk 22 Queimadas * Levada do Caldeirao Verde * Santana 97 Walk 23 Queimadas * Caldeirao do Inferno * Queimadas 100 Walk 24 Faja da Nogueira 102 Walk 25 Levada do Furado: Ribeiro Frio * Lamaceiros * Portela 104 Walk 26 Circuit around Santana 107 Walk 27 Two walks from Boaventura 109 Walk 28 Queimadas * Vale da Lapa * Ilha de Sao Jorge 111 THE WEST AND NORTHWEST Walk 29 Levada da Faja do Rodrigues 112 Walk 30 Lombada da Ponta do Sol * Levada Nova * Tabua * Ribeira Brava 113 Walk 31 Encumeada * Levada do Lombo do Mouro * Ribeira Brava 115 Walk 32 Folhadal and the Norte and Rabacas levadas 117 Walk 33 Bica da Cana * Levada da Serra * Pinaculo * Bica da Cana 119 Walk 34 Circuit around Ponta do Pargo 121 Walk 35 Campo Grande * Levada do Paul * Rabacal * Loreto 122 Walk 36 Cascalho 126 Walk 37 Rabacal's levadas 128 Walk 38 Levada da Ribeira Grande 131 Walk 39 Pico Ruivo do Paul 132 Walk 40 From Prazeres to Paul do Mar 133 Walk 41 Levada Calheta-Ponta do Pargo 134 Walk 42 Levada da Central da Ribeira da Janela 136 Bus timetables 138 Index of geographical names 144 Touring map Inside back cover


'We were greatly impressed with the detail, accuracy and comprehensiveness of the guide and with the research that obviously went into it. May I congratulate you on the best guidebook that I have come across. Despite having lived in, and visited, the Lake District over 60 years where there is a surfeit of guidebooks, I have not met your equal.' (Comment from a user who told us that while working in Madeira in the 1950s he had explored the island relying on a pre-war map and his sense of direction; lately he had returned to the island for the first time in 46 years.) For other insights into the book, see the 86 (or perhaps more) reviews of the 11th edition on Amazon.

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