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Part I: Postfashion * What Fashion Strictly Divided * Adorned in Zeitgeist * High and Low: the End of a Century of Fashion Part II: Eight Types of Fashion * Lagerfeld for Chanel: The Griffe * Montana, Mugler: Myth * Dolce and Gabbana: Deep South * Commes des Garcons: Ex Oriente Lux * Yohji Yamamoto: The Secret Sewn in * Gaultier: Revaluation of All Values * Helmut Lang: Fabric, Skin and Figure * Martin Margiela: Signs of the Time
Also available in hardback, 9781845200435 GBP45.00 (November, 2004)
Barbara Vinken is affiliated to the University of Munich.
'The intellectual reach of Fashion Zeitgeist is thrilling. Unconstrained by the empiricist concerns of much Anglo-American scholarship on dress, Vinken presents a challenging new poetics of clothing which will inform subsequent readings of style in significant ways. Its translation into English should be applauded.' Christopher Breward, Victoria Albert Museum 'Barbara Vinken brilliantly combines elegance and erudition to produce a subtle and thought-provoking analysis of contemporary dress and its interaction with the past. This is essential reading not only for students of dress history, but also for all fashionistas and anyone interested in the abiding fascination that fashion exerts.' Elizabeth Wilson, author of 'Adorned in Dreams 'Barbara Vinken is a sophisticated hostess to the 21st century world of what she calls post-fashion, a dream world whose carnivalesque rhetorics of irony, quotation, of clothes turned upside down and inside out, evokes the utopia of an everyday Halloween, a world of adult's transitional objects for today's and tomorrow's transitory subjects.' Denis Hollier, New York University 'Vinken is theoretical but also entertaining and informative. She shows how individual designers reject fashion dictates and make fashion a subject of discussion by examining it against the standards of haute couture.' Die Tageszeitung 'The spectrum of international top designers whose creations reflect the Zeitgeist is shown in 13 brilliant and amusing detailed analyses.' Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung 'No longer a reliable sign of either sexual or social order, fashion becomes in Vinken's hands a manipulating, subverting, revealing art that exposes our most cherished lies about ourselves. The once simple act of getting dressed will never be the same again.' Ramie Targoff, Associate Professor of English, Brandeis University