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Complete Dressmaking Skills
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Table of Contents

Prelims (5 pp) Introduction (4 pp) In this easy-to-access manual you will find advice and instructions on a full range of topics and techniques necessary for constructing clothing and accessories. With information about fabrics, notions, equipment, and commercial patterns, readers will feel confident to tackle more complex projects and know they will be able to achieve a professional finish every time. With the help of the troubleshooting chapter, any sewing problems can be easily prevented or solved. Inspiration and ideas for embellishing fabrics and garments are also included to allow unique designs to be created. Chapter One/ Equipment (16 pp) With numerous gadgets available to aid sewing techniques, it's helpful to know which of these are essential when you are new to sewing-this section walks you through all you need to know. Additional pieces of equipment can be added to your tool box as and when you need them. * Choosing the essential kit * More about equipment-for marking fabric, pinning, sewing, cutting, and measuring * Machines and accessories-sewing machines, sergers, blind hemmers, irons, and specialist presser feet/attachments Chapter Two/ Fabrics and notions (16 pp) With beautiful fabrics and haberdashery just waiting to be purchased, an understanding and knowledge of their construction and handling helps to bring about wise choices. This chapter gives the information required to select the most appropriate materials and notions for all types of sewing project, arranged in an easy to find manner. * Notions-zippers, buttons, fasteners, poppers, toggles, tapes, ribbons, braids, cords, lace edging, threads, interfacings, and stabilizers * Fabrics-examples with photographs of swatches, as well as how to choose, use, handle, and sew them * How to measure * Preparation of fabric before sewing including finding direction of nap, right/wrong side, and care and laundering * Using vintage fabrics and laces Chapter Three/ Basic Sewing (22 pp) In this section we cover the essential information for even the most novice of sewers, taking nothing for granted, and providing a perfect sewing foundation. Cutting, joining, and finishing fabrics and choosing the most appropriate techniques set out in a progressive order. * Terminology-the language of sewing * Hand stitching-running, back, blanket, buttonhole * Threading and handling a sewing machine * Beginners basics-plain seam, simple hem, and easy edge neatening for bags and easily made garments * More seams-flat fell and mock jeans*, French, and hairline* * More hems-hand and machine alternatives, double folded, single folded, machine blind hem*, narrow rolled (by hand), narrow rolled (serger), narrow rolled (sewing machine), faced, lace edged* * Darts-single and double ended * Edges-straight stitched, zigzag, overcast, serged, bound Chapter Four/ Techniques (76 pp) Whether you need to learn how to carry out a specific task or just need a reminder, here we provide comprehensive step-by-step instructions for a whole range of techniques. * Zippers-centred, lapped, invisible*, hand sewn, on show, pants** * Fastenings-poppers (covered, sewn, clamped), buttons (covered, two/four hole, shank, toggles), buttonholes (automatic, manual, bound, on sheer fabric, using gimp), belt buckles, hooks and eyes/bars, eyelets * Collars-shirt*, jacket (quick tailored revers), neck band*, Peter pan style, faced neckline * Cuffs-shirt placket*, shirt cuff*, jacket, flounce * Pockets-patch, welt*, trouser side**, flaps, breast pocket * Waists-easy waistband, firm waist**, elastic casing, attached elastic*, faced waist, bound waist, belt loops * Linings-skirt, jacket, dress, bag* * Yokes-shirt/dress* * Setting in sleeves (gathered and eased**) * Piping * Rouleau/shoe string straps Chapter Five/ Patterns - buying and making (32 pp ) Here we include all you need to know about buying, using, and adapting commercial paper patterns and what to consider when making your own. * Using commercial patterns-symbols, using size charts, laying out fabric, transferring pattern markings, following instructions * Measuring the figure for an accurate fit and using standard measurement charts * Adapting patterns to fit** (adjusting length, taking in, letting out) * Adding your own "je ne sais quoi!"-making skirts longer, changing sleeve styles, creating panels, adding pleats or tucks, mixing fabric textures * Making a toile to aid fitting and test out style variations * Making your own simple patterns, for example; a babies bib, shopping bag, make-up bag, basic skirt, child's pinafore Chapter Six/ The Sewing Community (6 pp) Make new friends, and perhaps money, from sewing through the network of opportunities available. * Workshops, online videos, blogs, sewing cafes, qualifications * Selling your work-craft fairs, online, party plan * Costing-materials, time, hidden expenses, and profit Chapter Seven/ Customising Clothes (32 pp) This chapter provides a reference for ideas and inspiration for embellishing and decorating fabrics, clothes and accessories. * Decorative stitching and creating surface textures-top stitching, couching*, machine smocking, drawn threads, beads and sequins, ribbons, and braids * Using gadgets-specialist feet and attachments or needles (wing needle hem*) * Applique* * Patchwork and quilting * Free-motion sewing and embroidery * Using a serger to produce decorative techniques Chapter Eight/ Couture techniques (20 pp) Discover traditional finishing methods from the couture houses with these little-known techniques. * Hong Kong finish* * Balanced darts * Traditional pad stitching * Couture hem * Horsehair braid hem * Interlining (what to use and how to apply it) * Lining and binding a skirt in one* * Lining a waistband * Boning seams for bodices and corsets Chapter Nine/ Troubleshooting (16 pp) When a finish looks less than professional, use this section to establish what is wrong and find out how to put it right. * Seams-shifting, crinkled or stretched seams and how to stabilise them * Hems-rippled hems on stretchy fabric (perfect T-shirt hem*), easing out tucks for a smooth finish * Facings-how to prevent flip out armhole facings * Necklines-achieving symmetry, stabilizing stretched or out of shape necklines * Jacket edges-stabilizing with tapes * Pockets-overcoming problems * Collars-creating symmetrical collars with suitable support * Fraying edges-suitable solutions * Cutting out-cutting fabrics with attitude! Glossary, Abbreviations, and Useful Charts (6 pp) Index and Credits (5 pp)

About the Author

Julia Fallon began her career as an apprentice pattern cutter and gained her Fashion Degree as a mature student. She set up her own design company, designing and producing couture and ready-to-wear bridal and evening wear. Before setting up Sew Me Something, she was head of a college fashion department. Sew Me Something offers dressmaking workshops From a team of tutors. She lives in Stratford-Upon-Avon in the UK. For more information, see www.sewmesomething.co.uk

Reviews

July 2014 This concise guide covers an incredible range of techniques from very basic hems and how to use your sewing machine, all the way through to sophisticated couture techniques and would be a valuable resource for sewers of all abilities. As well as clear photographs and diagrams for each step there are also accompanying online film tutorials for 15 of the techniques with expert commentary so that you can really see exactly how the results are achieved - like having your own personal dressmaking tutor! Decorative techniques are also included in addition on working with patterns plus extremely useful advice for selecting, adapting and making patterns to create your own clothing with the perfect fit! * SEWING WORLD * May 2015 This book is a step by step technique guide covering not only all the basic sewing techniques but also some couture techniques too. It's easy to follow and has lots of useful information for beginners and intermediate stitchers alike. It's one to keep next to your machine to regularly refer to. - See more at: http://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/best-sewing-books/#sthash.DiAdiXNP.dpuf * Sewing Directory, The *

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