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Cartier (Memoir S.)
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These small (61/4 " x 81/4") books, the first in a new series, offer capsule introductions to the achievements of three of the most important designers of this century. Bergé, Saint Laurent's partner since the couturier's sensational 1962 debut, writes a brief seven-page homage to Saint Laurent's artistry, followed by 52 photographs of his most significant designs, which changed women's fashions. Carefully selected, the illustrations also show the artworks and the environment that inspired Saint Laurent. Martin, curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute, offers an insightful analysis of recently deceased Italian designer Versace's eye-opening fashions, which juxtapose silk with leather, street style with couture, in an unmistakable signature. Forty-nine photographs illustrate representative works of the last 15 years. Trétiack manages to summarize the house of Cartier's 150-year history into a succinct 16-page essay. While Cartier designed fancy clocks and desk accessories as well, it is the fabulous jewels that are featured here and that the reader will recognize. Certainly, these books do not approach some of the serious, in-depth publications of recent years (e.g., Yves Saint Laurent: Images of Design, 1958-1988, 1988. o.p.) or the weighty and expensive coffee-table tomes (e.g., Versace's Men Without Ties, Abbeville, 1996), but for libraries with small budgets, these quality publications can provide economical introductions to designers with whom most readers should be acquainted.‘Therese Duzinkiewicz Baker, Western Kentucky Univ. Libs., Bowling Green

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