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AcknowledgmentsIntroduction1. The DesignThe Greenland Design as a Recreational KayakAnthropometric Measurement2. ToolsCircular Saw BladesDrill BitsKeeping Your Tools SharpThe Art of the JigThe Steam BoxSafetyWood DustSafety Glasses and Hearing ProtectionOn the Water3. MaterialsWoodGrain OrientationBending StockFabricDeck LinesDeck Fittings4. FasteningsLashing MaterialKnots and LashingsThe Eskimo KnotThe Water KnotLashingsTrunnels5. MillingRippingRipping Gunwales to ThicknessStationary Circular Saw Ripping JigRipping on a Table SawPlaningWedge Bench HoldfastMachine PlaningScarfingGlue ScarfsTraditional Scarf JointsHooked Scarfs for Chines and Keelson6. Getting StartedLaying Out the GunwalesBuilding Forms7. The FrameworkOrienting the GunwalesMarking the GunwalesCutting Rib MortisesMortising by HandMortise MachineRouter MortisingShaping the GunwalesCutting the Deck Beam MortisesMortising by HandMortise MachineBeveling the GunwalesThe Building FormsBeveling the Gunwale TipsHollowing the SheerPreparing for Deck BeamsStraight Deck BeamsCutting the Straight Deck Beams to LengthMarking the TenonsArched Deck BeamsCutting TenonsCutting Tenons on Arched Deck BeamsCutting Tenons on Straight Deck BeamsTest FittingAn Alternative to Mortise-and-Tenon Joints for the Deck BeamsAssembling the GunwalesLocking the Gunwales and Deck BeamsTrunnels to Join the Ends of the GunwalesPegging the TenonsDeck Beam Lashings8. The HullThe Rib GaugeCutting Ribs to SizeThinning the Ends of the RibsThe JointerThe Router TableThe Table SawHand ToolsThe Bending JigSteaming and BendingPinning the RibsBow and Stern BlocksAttaching the KeelsonAdjusting the Sheer and RockerPegging the KeelsonTrimming the Ends of the KeelsonCentering the KeelsonFairing BlocksThe Running LashingRunning Lashings Through HolesChinesPositioning the ChinesLashing the Chines9. Finishing the FrameStem PlatesMasikThe Masik PatternNaturally Curved StockA Laminated MasikStraight-Grained StockA 3-D Template for the Masik NotchesInstalling the MasikDeck RidgesTrial RunOiling the FrameThe Cockpit HoopThe Coaming FlangeFloorboards10. Skinning the KayakPulling Longitudinal TensionPulling Transverse TensionWorking SoloWorking with a PartnerThe DecksStretching the DecksSewingInstalling the CoamingLacing the CoamingCoatingsAircraft DopeTwo-Part Urethane11. Deck FittingsLeatherBeadsSlidersDeck-Line Placement12. The PaddleLaminating a Paddle BlankShaping the PaddlePaddle ArmorTapering the BladesRounding the ShaftTrimming the Blade EdgesOiling the PaddleMy Paddle ModificationsStorm Paddles13. ClothingThe TuilikThe PatternCutting the PiecesSewingSpray SkirtThe Spray Skirt Pattern14. Float Bags, Hunting Equipment, and SkegsFloat BagsHeat-Sealable FabricTraditional FloatsTowing FloatHunting FloatThe Rolling StickSkegsStrap-On SkegsA Hybrid Skeg15. Eskimo RollingCapsizing in ComfortWet ExitHip BracingSwimming with the KayakScullingSculling Back BraceSculling Chest BraceDeep ScullingBalance BraceForward Extended RollBackward Sweep RollSaving RollsWindow-Shade RollFloat RollsHunting-Float RollTowing Float RollThrowing-Board Roll16. Getting In and PaddlingGetting AboardEntry from a Steep or Rocky BeachEntry from a DockRough-Water LaunchingLandingThe Forward StrokeThe Sliding Stroke17. Variations of the Greenland KayakThe Rolling KayakThe Folding KayakKid's KayakRockersBalance StoolBalance SacksAppendixMaterials ListMetric Conversion FactorsSources of SuppliesBibliographyIndex
Christopher Cunningham has been the editor of Sea Kayaker magazine since 1989 and has been building kayaks since 1979. He has taught Greenland kayak construction at the WoodenBoat School and has built scale models of traditional kayaks for the Alaska State Museum. His Greenland kayak construction and paddling skills have been documented in several videos, and he has lectured on and demonstrated those skills in North America and Europe.