Every town in France has at least one charcutier, whose windows are dressed with astonishing displays of good food; pates, terrines, galantines, jambon, saucissions sec and boudins. The charcutier will also sell olives, anchovies, condiments as well as various salads of his own creation, making a visit the perfect stop to assemble picnics and impromptu meals. But the real skill of the charcutier lies in his transformation of the pig into an array of delicacies; a trade which goes back at least as far as classical Rome, when Gaul was famed for its hams. First published in 1969 but unavailable for many years, Jane Grigson's "Charcuterie and French Pork Cookery" is a guidebook and a recipe book. She describes every type of charcuterie available for purchase and how to make them yourself. She describes how to braise, roast, pot-roast and stew all the cuts of pork, how to make terrines, how to cure your own ham and make your own sausages.
Reviews
"Jane Grigson left to the English-speaking world a legacy of fine writing on food and cookery for which no exact parallel exists..." Alan Davidson "Jane Grigson likes to conjure. She is marvellous at putting food into a culture-context..." The Times
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Reviews
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How is it possible to rave about a book without sounding like some witless groupie? This is one for the bookshelf, keep it close to hand though - there are not many cook books that you will want to take with you to work each day, hoping that a spare moment will present itself for you to sink yourself into the recipes and descriptions - this is one - over the last two weeks I have found myself hiding the cover of this little gem while waiting at the bus stop, while waiting for my coffee...I am aware that reading a book with French Pork Cookery in public may be seen as a little odd (and possibly a sign of someone about to go postal!) but it is very hard to keep this little wonder far from hand!
Grigson is very aware of the limitations of the modern cook and kitchen, the preparations and recipes here do not delve into the somewhat ethereal places that people think of when the words 'French Cookery' are mentioned - Grigson is practical, her book is like being in a classroom and being instructed by that rare breed of teacher, the ones who are not yet jaded by their students, the teachers who are full of love for their art and want you to succeed - and succeed you will, do not be afraid of the pig - it is your friend - waiting for you to take the time and transform her into hams, sausages, pates and all the joys of the taste buds to be found in the French Charcuterie!
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