Foreword by Mark Westman; Prologue; Chapter 1 First Time Lucky; Chapter 2 Deliverance; Chapter 3 The Walking One and Only; Chapter 4 A New World; Chapter 5 Alaska; Chapter 6 The Ruth Glacier; Chapter 7 Craps; Chapter 8 Roulette; Chapter 9 The Ramp; Chapter 10 The Surprise; Chapter 11 Sheer Luck; Chapter 12 Coming Down; Chapter 13 'An obsession for the mentally deranged'; Chapter 14 Unfinished Business; Chapter 15 The Natural; Chapter 16 Too Loose; Chapter 17 The Valley of Death; Chapter 18 The Fissure McCartney; Chapter 19 Mixed Feelings; Chapter 20 The Roberts Traverse; Chapter 21 Hypoxia; Chapter 22 The Dilemma; Chapter 23 The Choice; Chapter 24 The Freaks; Chapter 25 Airdrop; Chapter 26 Flight; Chapter 27 Providence; Chapter 28 Australia; Chapter 29 The Kangaroo Route; Chapter 30 Hong Kong; Chapter 31 The Bond; Acknowledgements.
Simon McCartney was born in London in 1955 and was introduced to the mountains of the UK by his father, Mac. He became addicted to climbing in his early teens and spent his school holidays climbing all over the UK. A fine season in 1977 as the sorcerer’s apprentice to Dave Wilkinson, one of Britain’s leading alpinists, produced a number of paradigm-changing climbs. A first and extreme ascent in the Bernese Oberland and a string of second ascents and test-piece climbs around Chamonix changed Simon’s perspective on what was possible. The pair attempted a summer ascent of the north face of the Eiger but were thwarted by poor weather. Simon climbed the route in the winter of 1979. In 1977 Simon met Californian ‘Stonemaster’ Jack Roberts in a Chamonix bar. A partnership was formed and the pair went on to test the limits of their ability on two remarkable first ascents in Alaska, the second of which, on Denali in 1980, effectively ended Simon’s climbing career. Simon is now a successful businessman living in Hong Kong where his dubious talent in calculated but compulsive risk-taking has continued, albeit on South East Asia’s most prestigious buildings. The Bond is his first book.
This book portrays life at the very edge of
existence.' – Graham Desroy, Chair of Judges, Boardman
Tasker Award
'Recalled and written thirty years after the fact, The Bond is an
intoxicating read told with an immediacy that transports one
directly onto the face of the mountain. The word epic is the
most overused word in the climbers lexicon but this is an epic tale
in the true sense of the word.' – Paul Pritchard, 2016 Banff
Mountain Book Competition Jury
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